April Green Glass Sunlit Tubes by Lutha

Bright sunshine, finally, crisp air, at least that’s the way it was two days ago when I finally went surfing. As I write this a massive low pressure system that brought tornadoes and flooding to the midwest is now bearing down upon us here in the NE. Grey skies and damp creaky bones fill the consciousness… But, maybe we’ll get some waves out of it..?

Nonetheless, two days ago it was beautiful and sunny, probably the nicest surfing day thus far this year. I had arisen early, at sunrise, groggy, but greeted by the soft meow of my cat just before sunrise. Pinks and yellows a touch of red and some stars still twinkling in 30 plus degree morning clear sky weather dawning.

Looking out the door as my cat slid into the house beside me I realized that the cloudless early dawn sky meant that the wind had finally tuned offshore, and so the waves would probably be excellent!

I booted up the computer and checked the buoys—the swell was running solidly out of the SE but there was still some ESE wind-chop on it from the day before. The NW winds hadn’t yet kicked in enough to clean things up, but according to the NOAA forecast the NW winds were supposed to pick up lightly and so smooth things out by the early afternoon, and so my day began…

There was lots to do before surfing this Thurs morn; get the kid to school, make  breakfast, milk the cows, flog the dolphin, get the wife showered and off to work, and then figure out where exactly I should go surf…

Anyway this was all happening from 6-9 am, but I wasn’t actually ready and out of the house until 10:30 or so. Reports were coming in left and right from my friends. ‘It’s still choppy’, ‘it was epic at spot X this morning but now it’s no good.’ ‘Spot D is so so but looks like it’s getting better’ and so on. Realtime reports and speculation and cellphones and texts and internet reports and on and on and on while the sun shone brightly outside. Blue shiny sharpness and brilliant light and cawing birds and the neighborhood empty since most everyone else was off to work…

I threw the 5’6” Biscuit and my 5’11” Rich Price Quad + 1 into the Honda Hybrid, grabbed my Patagonia R4, some 7mm boots and my 3mm Psycho gloves and drove off with my tunes blaring on the radio. (Actually I threw in my Tibetan Chanting CD and chanted along with it for nearly 45”…)

Thank god for that CD!

Obstacle after driving obstacle was in the way on the roads to the beaches!! Tree companies forklifting trees into place on rich person’s properties, Southampton Town roadworks crews laying mass amounts of pipe and cables down Bridge Lane, yet more traffic in Southampton due to roadwork! What a freaking nightmare!!

Finally, after nearly 1.5 hours driving and nearly 12 spots later I pulled up to secret local beachbreak spot No. 145 and saw some nice sparkling spitting green glass tubes with only four guys out and perfect offshore winds; paradise…

I suited up, grabbed the 5’6”, specifically bought for backside head high barrels where you need the foam and the round-pin just to get over the ledge and float you through the tube-line. I had only surfed once or twice a month since Nov, so I was a little out of shape, and I was a little worried that I wouldn’t have enough energy to paddle enough to get into a few of the ledgier ones, but as soon as I was out in the lineup those concerns evaporated with my first wave, a perfect 6 ft plus backside barrel…

I saw that one coming, it began to stand up, three strokes and I was in, and BAM!! Drop knee backside barrel all the way to the inside for a good 30-40 yards!! Yah!!

Stroking back out with a huge grin I realized the only other guys out there were good friends of mine, and so it went with us all happily shredding sunlit April green glass barrels for the remaining 2 hours.

George and Matty and I were having a blast!

At one point, a kind of heavy one came in and I decided against the neck breaker only to see a 2nd one come in and George’s late drop right into the tube! Gerogie scored the heaviest 30 yard shack of the day!!!

2 hours later we were all surfed out and giddy as schoolchildren on a snowday, life is good…


About mainbeach

The natural resource for surfing, stand up paddling, kayaks, lessons, tours, surf camp, beach wear and all things outdoors in The Hamptons, Eastern Long Island, Montauk and beyond.
This entry was posted in Beach, Hamptons, Hamptons Surfing, Outdoor Adventure, Surf Boards, Surf Lessons, Surf Report, surf shops, Surfing. Bookmark the permalink.

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